26 August 2005

Finally got a call back from job my job apps. It's for Market of Choice, a locally-owed, progressive food store not three blocks from my house. They place organic products right next to the GM items. Also you can buy many items in bulk, which is great for single people like me--you don't have to keep buying family sized items and not being able to eat it all. Also, they have the biggest beer selection I've seen. There's beer from Austria, Kenya, Belgium, even Stella Artois, which I have never seen in the US (only Europe). I also bought a bottle (yes, you can buy single bottles here) of Kotayk, the most famous Armenian beer. Plus there are tons of microbrews from the Western Oregon area and also northern California which are all quite tasty.

Did I mention that we are in the middle of Oregon wine country? I'll have to check that out and write more about that later.

I should make a plug for Yuka's Time, my favorite weblog.

23 August 2005

Found a house. It's with a guy from New Hampshire. Big fenced-in backyard, a couple of picnic tables, tiki torches, a garden full of tomatoes, peppers, onions, and cucumbers. A washer and a dryer, dishwasher, quiet street. It's also got a wireless internet connection so I can use Yuka's laptop here in the back. Not bad. It took about five days to find the place.

Haven't found a job, but already approaching double digits on job apps, so one should turn up soon. That will provide some money until I can find "a niche in some unconventional but satisfying way," to quote a mentor of mine.

First impressions of Eugene:A Grateful Dead-painted Volkswagon van three houses down. A psychadelic VW van three houses down the other way. Tie-dye is in style. Mohawks of such brilliance and stunning coiffure to be art forms. Three weather forecasts: one for the Coast, one for the Valley, and one for the Mountains. Foggy, cloudy mornings giving way to cloudless days. Used book stores, local food, recycling, urban shamanism, organic restaurants, bicycles, aging hippies, long beards & army pants. A true American city.

You can rent dune buggeys for rides along the Pacific Coast, jump off cliffs into 40-ft. pools, take a dip in a hot spring, climb mountains, go white-water rafting. All this is about an hour away. Zazen meditation every weekday morning at 5:15 a.m. at the local zendo.

17 August 2005

Eugene, Oregon.

We've made it. Now the tricky part has come. I need to find a place to live. I need a job.

Yesterday, we left Boise and crossed the Snake River into Oregon about an hour later. I've seen the Snake a couple of times on our way out here, and it never ceases to amaze me. It cuts wide swaths through deep canyons, and winds around enough to keep popping up, from Jackson Hole, Wyoming to southern Idaho to eastern Oregon where it finally dumps into the Columbia River and heads west to the Pacific Ocean.

Although I don't have a digital camera, I plan on taking my finished rolls of film to be developed tonight and paying a little extra to get them on a CD-ROM as well. That way I can publish them on this weblog and you can see pictures of the Snake River and other things that make this country truly great & beautiful. Stay tuned.

Eastern Oregon is mainly badlands and lava flows. We stopped at the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, a geological wonderland where an astoundingly complete fossil record exists--40 of the 65 million years of the "Age of Mammals & Flowering Plants" are here. You can see perfectly intact skulls & skeletons of animals that are just not around anymore--four-tusked elephants, deer-mice, badger-skunk-dogs, wolf-horses, I'm serious. This is the only known place in the world where the early period of mammals is so perfectly preserved. There are prints of leaves & flowers & seeds, even one of those ubiquitous cicada shells from back in the day!

After about five hours of volcanic ash, we arrived at the snowcapped Cascade Mountains. We spent the night in pretty Sisters, where there were no tent camping grounds, but we were allowed to stay in the city park. This morning, we drove through the scenic McKenzie Pass and over & around the McKenzie River and down, down, down the mountains through 15 mph hairpin turns, signs counting down the elevation 5000 ft., elevation 4000 ft., elevations 3000 ft., ears popping, until we reached the fabled promised land of the Oregon Trail pioneers, the Willamette Valley, and my new home, Eugene, Oregon 97401.

We are staying the night at Eugene Kamping World in Coburg, about six miles north of town, and for practical reasons we may stay at a budget motel tomorrow. I'm kind of at a dilemma. What is the first thing you do when you get to a new town where you know not a soul and have no home, no gainful employment? The post office? Only three pieces of mail, none important.

We met Chieko, a nice lady who runs a district chapter of Soka Gakkai International, a branch of Nichiren Buddhism that Yuka belongs to. She's going to hold Yuka's stuff until she finds an apartment with her younger sister (who also will be attending the University of Oregon). My dad will send me my stuff once I find a place. Thanks, Dad. Still not sure how we're getting my double bass out here, but that's another story.

Wow, I've got an audience! People are actually reading this, as far away as Albania & Serbia. I think I'll continue writing, as I have a feeling things will be getting more interesting in the next couple of weeks. Thanks for all the emails and well-wishes; it really means a lot in this trying but exciting time.

I gotta start looking for apts & jobs, and I'll let you know how that goes next. Also, watch for pictures! Everyone loves pictures.

16 August 2005

(Updated 8/17)
Boise, Idaho.

On Sunday, we had a good, traditional Montana pancake breakfast at Martin's (since 1902) in Livingston's old train depot. That was our prelude to our second day in Yellowstone. We saw the Grand Canyon & Lower Falls, a spectactular show of nature. We also went to see the Sapphire Pool, the clearest, bluest water you'll ever see. It was a hot spring coming up from who knows where, steam everywhere. After Yellowstone, we drove through the magnificent Grand Teton National Park, where there are 14 jagged, granite, huge mountains neatly placed in a row across from the alpine Jackson Lake. We made it through there and into Jackson, Wyoming, a world-famous ski resort, and infamous home of those damn liberals!

Into Idaho. My impression of Idaho is brown hills & mountains dotted with shrubs amidst fields of golden hay. Not many people, not many houses, just more of the same. We drove along the Snake River Valley and made it to Lava Hot Springs for the night. This is a very small town tucked away in the mountains, just off US Highway 30. Wait a minute, what's this Lava Hot Springs, you ask. It's not in the Lonely Planet USA guidebook! Well, funny story. We were in Sheridan, Wyoming a couple days back, looking for a Wells Fargo ATM. We couldn't find any so I tried calling the customer service number. Apparently Wells Fargos are a rare breed in Wyoming, but they abound in Idaho, so I was told. The customer service rep sounded familiar with where the branches were in Pocatello & Twin Falls so I asked her if she was from there. She said yes. So I asked her if there was anything cool to see in the area. She suggested Lava. She was right.

There are hot mineral springs everywhere in town, and three public pools to dip in. The water is between 102-108 degrees Fahrenheit. It was really relaxing after a long day's drive. After the bath, we checked into the Cottonwood Family Campground and pitched our tent next to a waterfall. We slept & slept.

Yesterday, we cooked some Ma Po Tofu on my camp stove and headed west, always west, into Pocatello, Twin Falls, Filer, Idaho. We made a detour to see a balanced rock, driving through rows of cornfields to suddenly, abruptly find ourselves in a painted desert scene. It looked like somewhere in Nevada, although I've never been to Nevada. A huge 40 ft. by 48 ft. question mark of a rock balanced precariously above the others, in a 3 ft by 19 inch poise of nature's harmony.



Boise, Idaho. Once again, I'm on the web from my tent! We went into downtown Old Boise last night, had a meal outdoors in the Basque Town. Who would've ever guessed I'd be in the Old West of Boise, Idaho? It's actually pretty cool. The downtown is full of restaurants & pubs & movie theatres, people everywhere. This is the first town of any size we've been in since Sioux City, so it's nice to get that cosmopolitan vibe once again & Boise's happening like that. After our stroll, we checked into Idaho's #1 microbrew, the Table Rock Brewery, for a taste of an Idaho beer (I had an India Pale Ale, quite tasty).

Today, it's Oregon, my new home state. We're about one hour from it now, and will be in Eugene tomorrow afternoon, hopefully. From then the work starts. Have to find a job, have to find an apt., etc., etc. But two more days to enjoy ourselves. I'll do my best

13 August 2005

Livingston, Montana.

Today, we made it to Yellowstone. There's a lot of people there, but that didn't detract from the amazing beauty of the place. We drove through Lake Country, seeing Lake Yellowstone (one of the largest alpine lakes in the world), and then went to Old Faithful. There are about 900 geysers in Yellowstone (about 300 active ones). You can see steam coming up from all over the park.

Also this is the highest concentration of wild animals in North America. We haven't seen a bear yet, but we did get to see plenty of mule deer, elk, some ground squirrels, and many birds. Hopefully tomorrow we can see some moose & bison. There are waterfalls, many rivers (we cooked lunch & I played guitar by a beautiful mountain stream this afternoon), sulfur springs, canyons, who knows what else here. I don't want to leave.



A cold front moved through the West on Thursday and it feels like autumn is in the air. Right now it's 44 degrees Fahrenheit, a little cold for camping in the park, so we came up here to Livingston, Montana & are staying at the fabulous Del Mar Hotel. The hotel matches the downtown, which is a surprisingly happening place. Everything is neon 1950s style. You can go to the saloons that Calamity Jane raised hell in or have a beer at the Mint.


Livingston, Montana

We've passed the halfway point to Oregon. Next, it's another day of Yellowstone...need to see the Yellowstone Grand Canyon, Saphire Pool, and moose (hopefully bear, too). You need at least a week to really see everything in this park.

12 August 2005

Cody, Wyoming

We left Spearfish yesterday morning and headed into Wyoming. I think I’ve had a smile on my face since I first arrived in this state. Getting past the Black Hills, we wondered through some low hills of scrubland—no trees, no houses, just a few very large ranches. It was pretty lonely out there, but still beautiful. We made the mandatory stop at Devils Tower, the sight of alien contact in Close Encounters of the Third Kind. It is a sacred site to 23 Native American tribes.

This feeling of spirituality pervades the land…I often wondered if Japan has Kyoto, if England has Stonehenge, if Israel & Palestine have Jerusalem, where are the United States’ spiritual centers? I’ve found some here in this region—the Black Hills, the Badlands, Devils Tower, the Bighorn Mountains. This land is truly sacred.

I never heard of the Bighorn Mountains before this trip. I’ll never forget them afterwards. It was a long, long climb up the steep slopes, until we were in the clouds & fog. There were a few mountain streams, a few ranches, a deer, but not much traffic. At times, the fog was so thick we could only see about 20 feet ahead of us. But after we crossed the top of the mountains and popped the car into second gear for the harrowing descent (there are many “runaway truck ramps” and brake cooling points), the clouds broke and we could see endless miles and miles and miles of untamed Wyoming beauty.

We made it as far as Cody last night, where it was very tough finding a room. This is a touristy Wild West town, and you can still stay at the Irma Hotel that Buffalo Bill built. The Cody Rodeo goes on every night and the downtown is gen-yuwine Old West. I’ve been listening to the radio in this area. You can pick up an NPR station from Billings, Montana, where they had a live broadcast of their 4th annual Magic City Blues Festival. Buddy Guy, Keb Mo, and the North Mississippi All Stars are there.

This is like a whole new country. How do people get down in Sheridan, Wyoming, or Boise, Idaho, or Billings, Montana? When I was talking to the bikers at Sturgis, they were talking about how it’s such a shame that Harvey, North Dakota has gone downhill since the 1960s. That’s a place where real Americans were from, I was told. It’s a real cryin’ shame what’s happened to North Dakota. Everyone’s leaving. For what?

Today we’re on our way to Yellowstone. I was speaking to a customer service rep yesterday, looking for a Wells Fargo branch out in Wyoming (there aren’t very many), and it turned out she was from Idaho. She recommended Lava Hot Springs outside of Pocatello, one of the best hot springs in the country. For my Japanese onsen-loving girlfriend, that will be a welcome break after Yellowstone.

I dig the West.

11 August 2005

Spearfish, South Dakota.

Yesterday Yuka & I left Sioux City and headed for "somewhere in the Black mountain Hills of South Dakota...." We stopped in Mitchell, South Dakota and saw the world's largest bird feeder, the Corn Palace of Mitchell, South Dakota. Apparently, Lewis and Clark wrote that the Upper Midwest was some type of desert, unfit for growing anything of value. In a publicity bid to attract new settlers, the residents of Mitchell took their crops and nailed them to the side of the building in the 1880s. The idea stuck, but the corn doesn't always stick.



We took a drive through the Badlands National Park, which was incredible. I've never seen anything like it. The beauty isn't what you'd find in a traditional national park, but it's more of an austere, almost dreadful kind. We took a detour down a gravel road and saw bighorn sheep and bison. Seeing bison (aka buffalo) in the wild is a spiritual experience. We ended up on Pine Ridge Indian Reservation on about 40 miles of gravel road, which was eerily desolate and empty. I felt the ghosts of Wounded Knee crying out.
Then we stumbled on the Black Hills.
This week is the 64th annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally. It is the largest motorcycle rally in the world--I heard there's something like 700,000 Harley Davidson bikes here. It definitely seems like it.


We stayed in Hot Springs, next to a small stream. We had some problems getting our tent together, but some bikers from Minnesota (Larry, Jim, and Roger) gave us a much needed hand, and I ended up staying up and drinking beers with them. They were really interesting guys and good conversation. I learned quite a bit about biking, life in the 60s, Minnesota politics, and life in general. It was a great educational experience. I am really learning to appreciate the brotherhood, respect, and courtesy that goes along with biking.
This morning, we made it out to Wind Cave National Park for a tour of Wind Cave, the 5th longest cave in the world & interesting because its unique formations. We saw some herds of bison & prairie dogs!
After that, we went to the Crazy Horse Memorial, a sculpture that was started in 1948 and will be the largest in the world after its completion (they've only finished his face--they still have to do the rest of the body & his horse). We got to witness a blast on the rock as workers tirelessly unveil this "ruin in reverse." To put this statue to scale, it will be larger than the Great Pyramid of Giza when finished. This is being built without any federal or state funding, as the creator wanted it to be a work brought from the American people, not something from the government.
We saw Mt. Rushmore which was actually pretty moving. It had just gotten done raining, so the crowd had thinned out considerably. It was Yuka, me, and about 50 bikers in chaps gazing at this monument when the clouds parted and the sun broke across the mountain. Seing all this natural beauty & touching monuments is really making me wonder why I don't work for the National Park Service.
Right now we're staying in a campground in Spearfish, just west of Sturgis. There are a lot of bikes. A LOT of bikes. It's a very modern campground, though. It has a playground, a swimming pool, shelters, laundry, a convenience store, and wireless Internet access. Who would've guessed you could be online in your tent?!?
Tomorrow, we're bound for Sheridan, Wyoming via Devil's Tower National Monument. I am just beginning to see the great beauty of America unfold in front of me, and from what I've heard it just gets better as you reach the Rocky Mountains, Yellowstone, and the Grand Tetons. I am keeping on this Oregon Trail, and America hasn't let me down yet.

09 August 2005

Sioux City, Iowa.

We made the five hour trip from Washington this morning. It's kind of surreal being in Sioux City again. I've lived here for seven years, but suddenly, I don't have a home here. When Yuka & I arrived, we didn't have anywhere to go. So we ran errands: picked up my held mail, forwarded my future mail (word of advice, if you move to another town and don't know your address, forward it to "General Delivery" of the main post office of that town--you can cancel that forward once you get a place). Went to the bank, Yuka stopped at an import clothes shop Azapaza...we still didn't really have anywhere to go. People are still at work, so we came to the library. Once again, the refuge of refugees. I love the library.

I saw The Triplets of Belleville last night. This is one of the coolest movies I've seen in a long time. As a bonus, the music is great.

One of my new favorite movie characters is the waiter:

I heard that some classic 1957 Bethlehem Records albums are being reissued. Duke Ellington, John Coltrane, and Charlie Mingus albums. They're on sale at Shout Factory. My three favorite jazz musicians. Sweet on! (Did Mingus ever record with Coltrane? Could someone tell me?)

Nicholas Kristof of the New York Times is a role model for me. He comptemplates the WiFi pioneers of Oregon.

In other news, Yuka is UPSing some boxes to Oregon. We don't know how to get the 10 boxes from the Morningside College Alumni House to the UPS terminal because my car is already full. We have to do it before 5 p.m.

I'm supposed to go out with Nick Wingert and Noum Vohanh tonight. It's my last night in town for awhile. Two good guys to rap things up with, for the time being.

Gotta send those boxes.
09 August 2005
---------------------

Washington, Iowa.

Here we go. Two time zones, 2000 miles are in front of us. Much uncertainty. I didn't sleep well last night, but I'm feeling good now.

Eugene is in the Willamette Valley, the promised land at the end of the Oregon Trail. I am a modern day pioneer.

07 August 2005

Washington, Iowa.

It was Greeley or Soule or someone who said, "Go West, young man. Go West." I'm taking that advice and heading out on Tuesday morning to Eugene, Oregon. Some people move to new places because of jobs or other conveniences, but I'm taking a little different approach. I'm going to pick a good place first, and work everything else around that location. Yuka and I, after much deliberation, have chosen Eugene as that place.

So as of last Sunday, July 31, I became temporarily unemployed and homeless to pursue this great experiment. We're planning on camping out on our way out there, and perhaps staying in a campground in Eugene until we find suitable apartments. I also have to find a job. I'm doing this on about $500, maybe a little more; it depends on how much I get back from my old apartment's security deposit.

It's truly beautiful out there in western Oregon--one hour from the Pacific Ocean and one hour from the Cascade Mountains. From what I've heard there are spectacular summers, great outdoor activities, good restaurants, good local food & wine.

On this journey, we will be stopping in Sioux City, Iowa; the Black Hills of South Dakota; Sheridan, Wyoming; Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Park; somewhere in Idaho; somewhere in eastern Oregon; and finally, Eugene. We should be arriving in Eugene on 17 August. It is my intention to document this voyage.

This move is important to my personal growth. In today's society, being formally educated is not enough. There are more and more people graduating with bachelor's (and even higher) degrees than ever before. The market is diluted. In today's globalized society it is also important to be mobile. If I can make it in Oregon, starting from nothing (or near nothing), I can make it other places too. Not so many people are willing to do this. If necessary, I can then take this project worldwide. This is a start.